S8 on R34 gtr issue

[pavlo]

The honeywell sensors I have used are not up to the job of a 12-1 wheel at 10000rpm let alone a 36-1 wheel, but reading the datasheet suggests it should be easily capable. Suck it and see I guess.

this page: http://sensing.honeywell.com/index.php?ci_id=50369

suggests that the target needs to provide a switching speed of much lower than the 25khz given in the data sheet.

[PQatPIT]

3,0mm / 10,0mm teeth / teeth-spacing just work. Reading specs and doing things succesfully are different things.

Don't use 5 volt supply. 8 volt and up is ok.

8 volt with 800ohm pull-up is good, and 12 volt with 1000ohm pull-up is good, too.

[pavlo]

I have used 12v and the configurable pullup which is 3k3 i think. I will have a look at pulling in a separate 1k pullup resistor to.

[XKLABA 1]

Genuine Honeywell 1GT101 is good to 15kHz. Beware of cheap copies, beentheredonethat

10 000 rpm = 166,666 revolutions per second. 166,666 x 36teeth = 6000 events per second = 6kHz. (166,666 x 60teeth = 10kHz)

Well below limit, and I'd say safely because limit is more than twice.


Must note that with hall sensors and especially with 1GT101 tooth should be shorter than gap between teeth. For example tooth width of 3,0mm and gap width of 10mm works great. This gives about 149mm trigger wheel diameter. If bigger wheel is wanted then increase gap width.

Air gap with 1GT101 reading mentioned trigger wheel should be 1,0mm to 1,5mm.

Hey Mate, cheap copies !!, wow I would hope when you buy a $2000 dollar kit it comes with a genuine sensor FFS, I worked it out at 34 teeth @ 9000, but given the spacing 36 would have been the better way, either way this sensor should be more then capable

I measured the teeth and am sure they fell well within those measurements, less then 3mm teeth more then 10mm gap

The sensor gap was 1.16mm and would constantly miss the last 2-3 teeth per rev, so I reduced it to .615mm and it missed the last 5 teeth per rev, I then spaced it out to the 2mm limit exact and it then read every tooth perfectly

electronics are new to me, I have learned heaps since getting the S8, I'm more use to the mechanical side of things, what is the 800ohm pull-up thing, and should I be doing it before it gets tuned, if I change the sensor at a later date will it affect the tune

[stevieturbo]

Would it be easier/cheaper just to stick a 2 wire mag sensor in there instead ?

[PQatPIT]

...and it then read every tooth perfectly... ...what is the 800ohm pull-up thing...

If you have found a sweet spot that works ok, then go with it.

Pull-up resistor idea is to pull signal up to voltage it is attached, and sensor then grounds it when it senses tooth. If pull-up is too weak then the signal waveform edges are rounded, response is slow(ish) and it might affect ecu reading the signal.

I have found that some Bosch three wire magnetic sensors are good. Especially those that have magnetic pole visible at the tip of sensor There is one wire for shielding, one for signal ground and last for signal. Pity that some similar looking Bosch sensors are hall effect and connector is the same.

[XKLABA 1]

I have a red error warning coming up, it is for the lambda sensor, but i don't have any yet, how do I disable the sensor

Pavlo, want lambda sensor was this Cal calibrated for ?, I plan on putting two in in the not to distant future, but it goes in tomorrow to be tuned so want to disable it for that then reactivate it later and if I can use this calibration it would make it easier I think

[pavlo]

Remove them in the IO/config to start with.

[XKLABA 1]

Hi All,

thank you all for your help, much appreciated

I had the car dyno tuned, well tried to tune it, we only got 3 runs before the brand new Walbro E85 intank pump stopped working making the surge tank and Weldon pump run dry

it made 373AWKW at 19psi ( low boost setting ) with hardly any tuning so still more in it, I need to slow the Weldon down as it is moving the fuel to fast and heating up the 8.5ltr surge tank, I brought the Weldon 14000 pump speed controller to find out it won't take a PWM input , the rest of this sentence I'll put in the pump speed controller thread

The idle control doesn't seem to be working, it won't idle till it gets warm, most likely a setup issue but any ideas for things to look at would be greatly appreciated

Also any ideas on bumping the TPS signal ? I thought about a buffer of some sort but if anyone has done this any chance you want to post how you went about it

Ps the tuner is very impressed with the S8 so far just has to get use to the interface

[pavlo]

The TPS signal is fine on it's own, it's wiring it to the TPS input of the 4wd controller that kills it. I used a small transistor/resistor circuit to create an amp with a gain of 1 that isolated the main TPS signal from the 4wd controller and gave a nice beefy output that matched the input within about 0.2v which was all it seemed to need to keep the 4wd light from staying off. I didn't go as far as trying to use a consult tool to query the 4wd controller but I'm not sure I would have got very far if I had!

If you can send the .cal as it is and some logs to paul (at) syvecs DOT co DOT uk I will take a look and I should be able to help your tuner but if you've got this far then you should be in safe hands in the long term.