new to all this!

[hagar]

i own a mk3 supra with a 1jz gte engine in it and i was going to change the ecu in it. the car is currently being rebuilt and has had numerous modifications which i assume will complicate matters.

it is a 1992 mk3 toyota supra R 2500cc twin turbo 1jz gte R.

i have changed the following.
pulleys - lightened


turbo's and manifold with a 50mm divorced wastegate (screamer pipe) from the little toyota ones to gt 2871r's with lightened billet trims and all the whistles and bells. all studs and bolts are stainless and shortened to fit.





intercooler - bigger 3 inch handbuilt hardpipe kit with the larges one i could find that would practically fit.





inlet manifold - bigger with a 90mm throttle block and lots of trumpets.





flywheel - lightened and alloy


cooling - hydrofan removed and replaced with a mk4 waterpump and twin electric fans. oil cooling and PAS cooling also upgraded




all plugs are new and trd all coils are new and heavy duty racing ones.

i have changed one hell of a lot and now i want to put a new ecu on it. i was thinking of the syvecs g6 and attach a Toucan Touchscreen Gauge and Map selection unit made, i think, by jt innovations. i was wondering if you had any advice on these systems and any problems i would come across on the way. i have a build thread on the mk3 supra site if you want to see any mods made to the car which may affect the installation, link below, but my biggest worry is the state of my 20 year old engine loom with baked and cracking plugs and crumbly insulation. is a 2jz loom the same as a 1jz? will the enlarged but simplified inlet manifold have the right connectors as the original. what else will i need in the way of wideband sensors and other sensors? i want oil temp/pressure/boost and exhaust gas temp as heat will be an issue? can i control it buy using a laptop like the 70 litre methane catapillar turbo's i'm used to? i want to run this engine at around 400 bhp even though the turbos from owens motorsport can handle 430 each.

thing is i want to get another 1jz gte engine and have it built professionally to handle 1000bhp but only run it a 600, in theory putting a bit of reliability back into her and then just do a straight swap next year so i can afford to turn up the wick without things going bang as the original engine itself had 40 thou miles on her and isn't modified in any way. the car is this years project and a worhty engine/gearbox is next years but i have to wait for my funds to build up again

where on earth do i start? any hints and suggestions would be greatly appreciated as i have never attempted anything like this before, thanks.




build link - http://www.mkiiisupra.net/bbs/showthread.php?t=34810

[Jasper K]

You are doing an awesome job on the car chap! For further advice you best directly ask Ryan @ Syvecs as SUPRA is his middle name

Cheers,

Jasper.

[hagar]

cheers mate, that is a name i keep coming across time and time again.

[PQatPIT]

Looks mighty fine! But do not start it until you have a proper crankshaft dampener, either new stock unit or ATI one. With the wheel in first pic you will end up with broken crank. Been there done that

[hagar]

Looks mighty fine! But do not start it until you have a proper crankshaft dampener, either new stock unit or ATI one. With the wheel in first pic you will end up with broken crank. Been there done that

really? if these things are not better then why do they sell them? is it a common 1jz problem?

[Jasper K]

Hi there,

From my firsthand experience although not a Supra.

Don't be fooled by the hype. Whilst Alloy pulleys look nice and are light they wear really quick making new belts squeel when just replaced so you end up changing the pulley AGAIN. People advertise it as gaining response due to low weight which is partly true. However usually the weight and inertia reduction is very minor compared to the flywheel so there is almost no NET gain in response. Many cars have those heavy OE pulleys to dampen out vibrations in the crank. Especially on Inline 6 engines the crank is so long that vibrations are much more of a problem than on V6 engines or I4 engines. Especially when you rev the engine higher than the OE revlimit you could run into crank splitting vibration levels.

I had alloy pulleys on my Subaru and I was happy to go back to OE when my belts started squeeling, etc. Also the OE crank pulley actually had a DAMPER in it which is obviously there for a reason.

Best check what proper Crank dampers are out there for the 1JZ or revert back to stock. You could probably keep the Alloy pulleys on the other engine ancillaries if you don't mind the wear of the pulleys.

My 2 cents,

Jasper.

[PQatPIT]

Looks mighty fine! But do not start it until you have a proper crankshaft dampener, either new stock unit or ATI one. With the wheel in first pic you will end up with broken crank. Been there done that

really? if these things are not better then why do they sell them? is it a common 1jz problem?

Yes. Well, common straight six problem, BMW M50/M52/M54/S50, Toyo 1JZ/2JZ, Nissan RB-series and so on. They sell'em because somebody buys them . At least I can't see any other reason.

[hagar]

Looks mighty fine! But do not start it until you have a proper crankshaft dampener, either new stock unit or ATI one. With the wheel in first pic you will end up with broken crank. Been there done that

really? if these things are not better then why do they sell them? is it a common 1jz problem?

Yes. Well, common straight six problem, BMW M50/M52/M54/S50, Toyo 1JZ/2JZ, Nissan RB-series and so on. They sell'em because somebody buys them . At least I can't see any other reason.

D'oh!, but they looked so shiney and blue! i shall have to look into this a bit more carefully. i have seen other lightened ones that still have a damper built in.

[Benkku]

Looks mighty fine! But do not start it until you have a proper crankshaft dampener, either new stock unit or ATI one. With the wheel in first pic you will end up with broken crank. Been there done that

really? if these things are not better then why do they sell them? is it a common 1jz problem?

Yes. Well, common straight six problem, BMW M50/M52/M54/S50, Toyo 1JZ/2JZ, Nissan RB-series and so on. They sell'em because somebody buys them . At least I can't see any other reason.

Not just 'sixes' - but all internal combustion engines, because crankshafts are not infinitely nor ultimately stiff, against combustion pressure - but they twist - several degrees at worst.

I just recently engineered, mass dampener for my Peugeot XU inline four engine.

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff27 ... nertia.jpg
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff27 ... sring3.jpg
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff27 ... ighed2.jpg

Crankshaft is custom billet item, strong and stiff, but you still need (read anxiously want, at least technically wice 'should') an torsional dampener. Not just because of crank 'itself', but journal bearing life, components (crank, block) life etc..

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff27 ... tcrank.jpg

Those lightweight pulleys are made by guys who 'has no slightest' idea, and 'same type' guys are buying them, because that 'other guru bloke' also bought it.

[hagar]

thanks for that, i have asked this same question elsewhere and got exactly the same responce and i am definately looking for an alternative for the damper now but my original question about the ecu still applies.
where do you start?