S8 on R34 gtr issue

[XKLABA 1]

The R34 Coils fire on a 5v TTL Signal from the ECU

Can you get teamviewer loaded up so a member of the Support team can log in and go over the car live to Assist more

Support@Syvecs.co.uk

Hi Ryan,

I have teamview already and was going to try organize to do it Friday but it has stormed here since Friday mourning and my wifi doesn't work in the colourbond shed, as soon as I step out side it fine, hopefully your Monday mourning we can organize it if what Pavlo has suggested doesn't work

In output tests

If you do the test, best unplug the coils and check for the actual voltage changes on the trigger wire( need a meter with duty, pw or a scope really. Meter across trigger wire and ground )

Although if you go to Ignition Pulse Request and from 0, hold the +/- key, whilst the +/- is pressed it will pulse the output, and you could check for a spark at the plug whilst doing this.

Hi Stevie

thanks for that, I tried that and got nothing but then the coils are set Normal

So to check.

You have +12v, GND and TTL signal to the coilpack?

The ignition was set to normal, it needs to be set to TTL if the coils are wired like a factory coil (last time I did R34 coils I didn't wire them as per factory and instead comonned the +12v and trigger, using a high level ignition output on the ground terminal of the coil to fire it).

You need to go into IO Configuration->Required Spark Output Configuration

Set it to TTL 1-6

Device->Program.

Remove coilpacks and place on engine with plugs in for testing, usual safety rules apply, ensure plugs grounded, no fuel sitting on engine etc.

Go to Output Testing->Ignition Output Base States and ensure all are OFF
Go to Output testing->Ignition Output Pulse Duration and set 1-6 to 3ms
Go to Output testing->Input / Output test mode and set to "enabled"
Go to Output testing->Ignition pulse request In outputs 1-6 you can test each coil individually by using + or - key or by any other method of changing the number, any change will send a single pulse request. Keeping your finger on the + or - key will pulse and fire the respective output repeatedly.

There is a change that the coils have already been blown.

Hi Pavlo

Ok that sounds promising, I was just going through the settings and came on to asked if it was meant to be set on Normal or TTL and if TTL which one but 1..6 seemed right so your post was my answer but prepared earlier

I'll give that a go now, I just have to reduce the IOPD from 4ms to under 3ms, easy easy

thank you guys for your replies

[XKLABA 1]

Hi all

Ok so after changing the setting to TTL I got spark, put plugs back in and reconnected injectors and after a bit of winding it fired in to life

it idles for a few seconds then dies, so now it off to be tuned

thank you for all your help

Michael

[pavlo]

3ms was just a precaution as GTR coils don't like huge dwell times.

Well done on getting sorted though, you will need a good 4d throttle correction map otherwise it will be a pain to tune properly. Usual strategy is to use WOT at low boost using boost control (sometimes with external air source) to allow you to run 1bar at WOT and then 1bar at say 50% throttle with much higher WG duty to get your throttle corrections right, but it's a tedious business to get 100% right and often takes a bit of logging and fine tuning the part throttle zones to get totally right.

[XKLABA 1]

3ms was just a precaution as GTR coils don't like huge dwell times.

Well done on getting sorted though, you will need a good 4d throttle correction map otherwise it will be a pain to tune properly. Usual strategy is to use WOT at low boost using boost control (sometimes with external air source) to allow you to run 1bar at WOT and then 1bar at say 50% throttle with much higher WG duty to get your throttle corrections right, but it's a tedious business to get 100% right and often takes a bit of logging and fine tuning the part throttle zones to get totally right.

Ok, I'll pass that on to the tuner, thank you

can anyone give me the calibration values for the 4 bar map sensor that came with the computer ?

ATM the BAP is reading 1013 and the MAP is reading 791 with the engine off

[XKLABA 1]

I'm really sorry if I'm been a pain, I'm starting to feel like "that customer" , but have been going through the cam checklist settings and I can not for the life of me make heads or tails of the setting vs the scope trace as to how it knows Phase 1 from Phase 2

the setting say 1 check at 53deg - 1 check at 164deg - 2 checks at 300deg / 1 check at 53deg - 1 check at 164deg - 0 checks at 300deg, but I can not recognize that on the scope trace

it looks to me that there are 3 checks in each 360 cycle ?

Michael hills base-36-2-v1.403.SC

current cal

(425.59 KiB) Downloaded 940 times

36-2 scope log.txt

scope trace

(209.49 KiB) Downloaded 940 times

[pavlo]

The map sensor sounds like one of mine, probably easier to do a nice new cal file. But in the meantime if you set 0mbar = 0volts and 4000mbar = 4.75 volts you will be within a few mbar.

As for the manual cam checklist, rear my post viewtopic.php?f=7&t=497#p2382

Essentially we are looking to find some unique feature that only happens in a particular crank angle range on one out of the two phases.

So in the case of yours there are 3 checks in each cycle, 53, 164 and 300 degrees. And it looks at events since the last check so if we have an edge at 350 and 40, then when we get to 53 we would see 2 edges. Anyway, looking at yours on one phase there are 2 edges between 164 and 300, while in the other phase there are none, and that's how it knows the difference. If you look at the scopetrace you will see there are 6 edges, and in total we have 6 edges across the two phases in the manual cam checklist.

In hindsight I could have simplifed that to 2 checks per phase, 164 and 300. And the totals would have been 2,2 and 2,0.

[XKLABA 1]

ok so rechecked reference angle and played with the cam timing and i can now get it to stay running and it goes 720 sync ok, just not idle but given its on E75 I'm stoked, maybe a few minor adjustments then it off to the dyno next Wednesday


I had read that post a while ago but couldn't find where I had read it, might play with the cam angle check points abit as some are very close/borderline to missing the check point

the current cal had 1 check in each of the 3 checks on both phases, the ref angle was 5deg off and the adjustable cam gears throw off the CAS throwing it another 5-7deg off, played around with them and now it makes sense, the trigger wheel or hall sensor will need changing at some point also, ideally a 24-1 and the LS7 sensor will be what I look at

thank you for all your help guys, any other tips you are willing to post will be appreciated, ill post how it goes on the dyno

[pavlo]

Yeah those check angles will be specific to a CAS position . However you can bring up the parameter Camraw which is the angle that the ECU uses to compare. If you show it at 1or 2hz it should cycle through all the edges. The gap between the angles should remain unchanged but they might need offsetting. Remember than a change in CAS position will NOT change the crank angle.

As for a new sensor I've found another sensor that should do it here in the UK, I'm about to fit some for wheel speeds.

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/magnetic-pickups/5172807/

[XKLABA 1]

there is a place 20 minutes away from me that has that sensor, I've been doing some searching and from what I can find the Honeywell 1GT1 sensor runs at 25khz and that one is 15khz, but 5 times the price or is there something I'm not seeing

[PQatPIT]

Genuine Honeywell 1GT101 is good to 15kHz. Beware of cheap copies, beentheredonethat

10 000 rpm = 166,666 revolutions per second. 166,666 x 36teeth = 6000 events per second = 6kHz. (166,666 x 60teeth = 10kHz)

Well below limit, and I'd say safely because limit is more than twice.


Must note that with hall sensors and especially with 1GT101 tooth should be shorter than gap between teeth. For example tooth width of 3,0mm and gap width of 10mm works great. This gives about 149mm trigger wheel diameter. If bigger wheel is wanted then increase gap width.

Air gap with 1GT101 reading mentioned trigger wheel should be 1,0mm to 1,5mm.